Return Home

I am home. I just finished reading the comments from the last post and how lucky I am to have such supportive wonderful friends. I will look forward to sharing pictures and stories in the near future. I think I will be feeling the effects of this trip for a long time to come. Thinking about the wonderful experiences and processing all the that I have done and seen will take time. The journey home was long...much longer that the trip took to get there. These first few days I have decided to focus on being with my girls-completely. I will worry about email, school and the rest of my life in due time, but my focus now is being in the moment with them. The jet lag and return culture shock, as they call it, is a bit more than I expected, so I plan to rest and recover slowly.One of my initial reactions to an expereince I had is interesting though. I was in the airport in Germany and there was an Indian family attempting to purchase tea at a kiosk stand. I watched them struggle through the language barrier and cope with the differences of getting chai in India at a stand vs this stand. The woman serving them was getting very impatient. I know this seems minor, but I felt such empathy, understanding and compassion for them.I wanted to help.It felt good to feel this understanding. One of the goals of the Fulbright program is to promote cross cultural understanding.I think that this was definitely accomplished for me.I have a much deeper appreciation and respect for the different ways in which we all live.
Love,
Mary

Escape from Paradise

I am here now in Hardiwar. It was tough getting out of Rishikesh today. I had to take a cab as there were not any autorickshaws, shared vans or busses due to the festival. The ride was interesting it is about a thirty mile stretch and there were people camped out on the road the whole way. The cab driver told me that most of the men coming are farmers and in the agriculture business. They come from all over the country.He said most have probably not ever seen a very white person before. Hence the continued staring and harassment. I found out that the Bum Bum Boolah chant is some sort of empowerment to draw the Shiva energy.I am in an internet cafe now and the owner is doing some sort of ritual on an alter that he has constructed. I think it is Aarti a thanksgiving for the Mother Ganga. He has a bowl of water there also.He is chanting Hindu and it is very nice to the ears.The people in India have such strong spritual roots. This most definitely carries over into the education system. Each morning they have an assembly they where they pray and have a yoga centering time. This was at every school we went to regardless of if it was private/public/government run. This I think is one of the their keys to success that is a strong moral base.Anyway, I think it is more crowded here than it was in Rishikesh and I will be happy to return to Delhi tomorrow. I also found out that the man running the internet shop also is a tutor and one of his students just came in. Tutoring is big business here in India and I will explain more about that later. The first thing they did was pray and I can see that this student has great respect for his teacher. I am going to get out now and take a few pictures of the procession. It has been going on now for hours. I leave tomorrow early at 6:20.By the way I did have a beautiful this morning before I left Rishikesh. I got up very early and had a quiet peaceful walk.
Love,
Mary

A perfect day

Last night the rains came in buckets! It was incredibly beautiful and I had a front row seat. Had to abort my trip out to dinner, but given how much I have been eating I am sure it will do my body no harm to miss meal.Very early this morning I walked a path along the Ganges that has several sandy beach point accesses. I passed a holy man(Sadu I think) that was having a beautiful interaction with a cow. It was the way he was petting and touching the cow-so gentle and loving. Then another Sadu passed me, stopped touched the ground at my feet and said I wish for you a long life. It feels very nice to be surrounded by such peace in a place that because of the Shiva festival feels somewhat like beach week with no females.One thing that has been difficult for me is proper cultural etiquette, for example when I received the blessing today I was not sure if I was supposed to give the holy man some money.There is only so much you can gain from the lonely planet tour book. I have tried asking a few questions here and there but find that my understanding is not so good. After spending some time at the river I went to the yoga class. Not what I am used to but a good class. Had some really great hummus and chapatis for lunch and visited a temple. The temple had many floors with different Gods and Goddesses on each one. Again some etiquette came into play again but I stayed in the moment the best I could. There were lots of people shuffling through.It is interesting some are very receptive to westerners others not so much.I make effort to always speak to women and children, however find it is best to avoid any eye contact with men. When I lay in my bed and look out one of my windows I can see the very top of the temple. I have been looking to purchase some prayer bead here and was determined to buy them from a woman and today succeeded.I have decided to head back to Haridvar tomorrow as the crowd seems to be thickening here and I don't want to take a chance in getting a return cab and missing my train on Wed. am.I am hot and tired-time to rest and recoup. Hopefully no rain and I will make it out to dinner.
Love,
Mary

Hari Om

Last night I had a light dinner and then sat on my balcony and watched the sun set down into the mountains. I thought about the nine hour time difference and wondered what people were doing at home.I stayed out a bit listened to the rushing Ganga and watched many bats flying. I went to sleep with the sound of Hare Krishna chanting and temple bells ringing in the background. Also in the background there was a continual chanting of Bum Bum Boola from massive groups of young adolescent males who are here for the Shiva festival. The best way to describe it is that I feel like I am in the middle of a huge fraternity party. I woke up this morning to the site of monkeys on my balcony and a beautiful sunny day with the Himalayan mountains in the background. Had a nice walk along the Ganges and was greeted with Hari Om by several holy men. Met a nice young woman from California(Eileens age) she was pretty upset about all the harassment and was out to find some more suitable clothing.By this I mean something that would hide her arms etc. We chatted a bit and I hope that I brightened her day-she was very distressed. As annoying as the whole Shiva festival has been it is very interesting to watch with their various worship ways. It has also tested my ability to cultivate Peace in chaos.Today I have seen some families, and some men with their young sons. I have even seen several women decked in orange a refreshing site.The choices for yoga are overwhelming. I found a place and plan to try it tomorrow. It is 3:00 now and very hot out. I am going to retreat to my room now and read about. Probably venture out later for phone calls, some dinner and another sit/dip by the Ganga.By the way the responses and comments mean a great deal to me. Thanks.
Love,
M.

Rough start in Rishikesh

Hi,
I have not done as well at this blogging as I thought I would, but anyway here I am in Rishikesh. The official Fulbright program ended on Wednesday. I traveled here via train on Friday am. I never tire of looking out the window no matter what vehicle I am in there is so much to take in here that is beautiful and different from what I know. I arrived here to find what looked to be that every male in the country of India put on an orange tee shirt and came here for a festival to honor Shiva. I am not kidding I think that the paper said something like 700,00 males. With that comes alot of distress for me in the way of unwanted stares and harassment. I making the best of it, but have moved to a much quieter part of town up the Ganges. I am now in Lakshmun Jhula and have a beautiful clean room with a fantastic view of the mountains and river.The cost for this room is 250 per night, which amounts to about 5.00 a night. An incredible bargain no A/C. but this is not really needed as there is a beautiful breeze coming off the water.While I am here I plan to offer prayers at the evening and morning ceremonies for Hannah, Rachael, Brien and Lily.I am also going to check out the yoga classes at Sant Seva Ashram this evening. Getting by on my own without the Fulbright guidance has been very tough, but I think in the end I will have a huge feeling of accomplishment. I am going to be happy to sit here for a few days(in the somewhat quiet) and think about all that has happened in the last 6 weeks. I miss the girls terribly and wish that they could be here with me. I am looking forward to coming home on the 10th.I will probably be posting every day because the Internet is right downstairs and very inexpensive.
Will check back in tomorrow-
Love,
Mary

Mumbai and more

Hi Friends,I have not posted since Orissa. I am now in Mumbai with one week of the official Fulbright program to go.Everything seems so insignificant now since Erin told me what happened back home. For those of you who don't know my dear friend Rachael recently lost a child and I think that is all I need to say. I have been feeling very sad and distracted by this and mostly such sympathy for all who are dealing with this unforeseen tragedy.More later.
L. M.

Oh what a day-India land of extremes

Today has been a very different day. Yesterday one of the Fulbright staff asked me to talk with someone from for the Times of India, which I was very happy to do. This morning my friends pointed out a great article in the paper about the US teachers visiting India. As we read further here is how they quoted me-“They are very sincere, teachers dedicated and the curriculum of high standard. Kids are sent to school from the age of three and non-performers are treated as morons” said Mary Craig who teaches at John Marshall Elementary School in Newport News, Virginia. Now-I did not say this, not even close. I would not say this in private about a child, let alone in public to insult an entire country. I was pretty upset, but when I got back to the hotel tonight and reread the article again I had to laugh because in the side bar it says-Pat on the back with my name and a very positive quote. Like I said land of extremes-this comment is so far from who I am or anything I would say.. My friends here have been so supportive of the whole mess. Jennifer even gave me her name tag to wear so I did not have to have mine on. The Fulbright staffers do not seem phased by it at all. They said to take it with a grain of salt and that is how the press functions here. Currently I have asked to meet with the reporter and ask her exactly what she was thinking when she attached my name to the comment.
Enough for now another busy day tomorrow. My worst nightmare of misrepresenting my country has come true.
Love,
Jennifer aka Mary Craig

July 16-Bubaneswar

Okay, I have just spent an hour trying to load picture up on this thing and no luck. After a very rocky flight we arrived in the state of Orissa yesterday. Again, the day was jam packed with activity. We saw some wonderful traditional dancers. They were children and the show was fantastic.Today was a very busy day. We started early with a panel discussion about education in India. Then we went to several sites-a non-government, non-profit organization that focuses on Primary education, sustainable livelihood, disaster management, child rights etc. They are doing good work www.cvsd.org. We visited a school and they also rolled out the red carpet for us greeting us with music fanfare and they usually place bind his on our foreheads. I am finding many similarities between our two educational systems. We also visited several temples as Bubaneswar is known as the city of temple. Particularly interesting was Khandagiri-an ancient Jain monastery which is carved into cave like chambers that are filled with beautiful carvings.We finally ran into some rain today, First day which is surprising since it is monsoon season.It is 9:11 here and I have not had dinner yet and realizing how starving I am so I think that I will end this now and try for the pictures tomorrow.We will have more school and temple visits tomorrow.
Love,
M.

July 13

Wow-July 13th I can't believe that I have not written anything in 4 days. Pictures take too much time to post, so I will have to share that when I get home. Anyway, thanks again for all the posts. It really is comforting and sorry I do not have time to respond individually to you. We arrived in Kolkata(Calcutta) a few days ago via an overnight train ride from Varanasi. Pretty interesting very beautiful countryside in the morning. The train was two and a half hours late and we slept in cars that had three teired bunks six bunks to a small unit. We have visited the Victoria Memorial and learned a bit about the British occupation here. Still visiting many different types of schools and finding a wide range of equity as in the US. Tonight I had a most amazing experience. My friend and I went across town to visit the convent of Mother Teresa.My heart melted when we walked inside and I was moved to tears. We arrived there exactly at the time that they were starting mass. Pretty amazing considering the day and timing of other activities today. Her tomb is inside the small modest chapel and her room has been preserved. I am still making sense of this experience, but definitely feeling the power of charity and giving that this woman devoted her life to. Tomorrow will be more school visits and then we will leave for a new city on Sunday. I continue to learn and be mesmerized by the differences in our cultures. Each time I go out on the street I am amazed.The driving here is crazy and I don't understand why people do not have more car accidents. The streets are like one big camping trip-people do everytbing cook, live etc. It is an amazing place.
Love for now,
M

July 9

Hi,
Today we have some extra time becuase one of the schools that we went to visit this morning was closed. An NGO(non-government school) philanthrapic school. There are many different levels of schooling here-public which means private here-government schools and then the non-profits. I will try to post some pictures soon. I wish that I could describe the utter chaos of roads and driving here.We are still in Varanasi-Erin this is the town where the movie "Water" takes place. Our driver told us today that it is the town of learning and burning. For many years(like thousands) it has been known for academics. It is said that if you die in this town that your life/death cycle is complete.You will not have to expereince rebirth anymore.The day yesterday was very good. After I rested a bit we went to the location where Buddha gave his first sermon to 5 disciples. Lots of pilgrims visiting and ruins to see. We have been getting around town in bicycle rickshaws and this made me feel kinda bad. Having someone haul me around on a bicycle, but one of my friends pointed out how much better it was for the environment and it is keeping someone employed.We are getting ready to head out and hear a lecture on the environmental water condition of the Ganges.
Love for now,
M.

July 1-8

Hi,
First I want to thank you for all of the posts to the blog. It helps to fend off the homesickness knowing I have so many friends and family with me in spirit. I will try to condense some of the insights I have had over the last few days. We have a very intense schedule each day. We start very early and usually don't finish up until maybe 7 and then I try to get into town to call the girls or commune with the culture. Accommodations- are very upscale www.tajhotels.com in case you are interested. We are waited on hand and foot. For example, in the gym as you work out they bring you water, fresh juice and some kind of very nice smelling cold face cloth. Service I definitely did not know existed. Pictures-I haven't taken very many. There is something odd that I am experiencing in capturing daily life here. It feels intrusive and voyeuristic to me. So, I am still working on this one. No picture can ever convey what I have seen here. Poverty-This is a part of life everywhere and giving handouts in this situation, for reasons I won't go into here will not help. I have been praying every morning and just working on cultivating compassion for those who need it. I will find an organization to help out and do that when I get back to the U.S. Culture-It is very different here not better or worse then the U.S. just different. I have been trying to view things by looking through the eyes of an Indian and putting my self in their place. Daily routine-we hear alot of lectures. Schools-I am not ready to say what I am learning form Indian educators just yet. However, the India people are most generous and welcoming. Everywhere I have been the love people from the US we are highly regarded. Particularly in the school environments. Before we left Delhi we say some amazing dancers http://orissagov.nic.in/culture/odissi.htm We visited an educational site that promotes cultural literacy in the schools throughout India. I am finding that a sense of culture/family and God are very important here in school-Hmmmm. Yesterday we traveled here to Varanasi www.varanasi.nic.in.This morning we took a boat ride on the Ganges to experience the morning prayer service(4am), and funeral process. Later today we are traveling to Sarnath. This is where Buddha gave first sermon. I am going now to walk in the beautiful gardens in the hotel before going to Sarnath.There is just so much to process in my mind, but not enough time to think about it. Very intense.
Much Love for now,
M.

July 1 New Delhi

India is diverse and complex. Severe poverty is entertwined with extravagant wealth. Today was the first day that we really got out into the city. I am just coming in from a long day and I have not really had time to process all of the sights of the day. The poverty was hard for me, very hard. That is what I cannot get out of mind.
We had a day also filled with lecture about the Indian education system and Indian Art and religion. We visited Sikh, Hindu and Buddhist temples. Last night at USEFI they had a huge reception for us. Need to go think about the day- Will write more tomorrow.
Love,
M.

Chicago

Hi Everyone,
Getting ready to leave today from Chicago. It has been a very long three days of intense lecture with not alot of down time. Lectures that included Hindi language, religions and education systems of India. It has been fun getting to know the participants everyone is very nice. We are leaving for the ariport in a bus at 2:30 our flight leaves at 7:00 tonight. We do not think that we wil be effected by the delays that are happening at OHare. Hopefully not. This morning I took a nice walk with my friend Linda down along Riverside Dr. It runs along Lake Michigan and is really pretty. It is very beach like and I was surprised to see how clean it was. Actually Chicago is a very clean city and has all the big shopping stuff, which you know I have no interest in at all. I think that a group of us are heading for a big ice cream Sunday before we depart. I am pretty apprensive right now, which mostly stems from being so far away form the girls and my inablity to get to them quick if needed. I will rest this worry with God and know that all will be well. I am trying now to upload a picture from this morning it is a picture of the walk from this am. Hope it works. The Sears Tower in the background.
Love for now,
M.

Mapping the Journey

One week from today I will be in India. This is still hard for me to believe.Here is a map that shows the places we will visit. You can click on the map to enlarge it.

1. June 25-29 Chicago


2. June 29-July 7 New Delhi


3. July 7-10 Varanasi


4. July 10-15 Kolkata


5. July 15-18 Bhubaneshwar


6. July 18-22 Chennai


7. July 22-25 Kerela


8. July 25-29 Mumbai


9. July 29-31 New Delhi


10. July 31-Aug 1 Agra


11. Aug 1-2-New Delhi


12. Aug 3-10 Rishikesh

The Journey Begins

My journey begins with deep feelings of gratitude. Yesterday my wonderful children, friends and family had a going away party for me. It was just amazing and I think that 60 people were in attendance. I received so many kind words, prayers and wishes for a safe journey. Also, many many gifts to bring to children and schools that I will visit during my travels in India, How generous you all have been. Many items did not have cards, so if you have not received a personal thank you note please accept my sincere apology. If anyone has pictures from the party to share please email them to me and I will post them here.
I have decided to keep this blog as a way to communicate with everyone at home while I am away. I will post thoughts and hopefully pictures when I can. Please post responses here if you like. Just click on the Iink below that says comments and follow the prompts. You do not have to be a registered user to post a comment. I will be leaving for India in 2 weeks on June 25th and I will return on August the 10th. Wow-India! A lifetime dream is about to become a reality.